A few days in the British countryside

Full English, Lyme Regis, serve yourself beans on the side.

Full English, Salisbury. Those are the ubiquitous beans; think "pork and beans."

Up early for a "Full English Breakfast," which consists of bacon or rashers (more like thin slices of our ham, or what we might know as Canadian bacon), sausage, a sunny side up egg, beans, a fried half of a tomato, mushrooms, and toast. It is invariable and everywhere. Nobody seems to know when this came into vogue. One older woman (a bit older than us) said it wasn't so when she was young. They called it a fry up and everything would go into the fryer. Got into a discussion about the breakfast and then other British dishes, especially ones with funny names:

a banger (a sausage) - Just saw a Michael Caine movie (he's just returned to England, after being more or less under house arrest in Russia) where he says, "God, it's been so long since I've had a banger. I've really missed my bangers."

bubble and squeak (cabbage and potatoes fried, sometimes with bacon)

spotted dick (a cake roll with raisins) 

afters (dessert)

toad in a hole (batter with sausage in it or Yorkshire pudding)

cuppa (a cup of tea)

salad cream (salad dressing)

This conversation has continued with various other British people. Just today a woman told us she thought "banger" came from during the war when they would mix more bread with the sausage (than they do at present) and it would explode in the oven. Don queried, "And does Bubble and Squeak bubble and squeak in the oven?" The guide who was with us (in Salisbury Cathedral) said Bubble and Squeak would bubble and squeak when cooking. Don quipped or was it that perhaps we bubble and squeak after we eat it? Yes, probably so, said the guide, laughing.

Took a bus to Lyme Regis less than 10 minutes away. Bitterly cold on the beach, but quite magical.

A viewing platform from another era, a Jane Austen setting. Multi-colored changing rooms added at a later time. Gardens up above.

As stated previously, Lyme Regis is on the Jurassic Coast and is famous for its fossils, which are supposedly found everywhere down past those distant houses. We decided it was just too cold to venture down there.

Lyme Regis is also the setting for The French Lieutenant's Woman, which must have been one of Meryl Streep's first movies, and which I barely remember. It's also where my friend Mary Day tells me "stubborn Louisa fell off the Cobb and broke her ankle, in the great moment of Persuasion" by Jane Austen. The Cobb is a long curved sort of pier which stretches into the ocean. It is famous, but not that scenic. You can see the beginnings of it in the upper lefthand corner of the above photo.

Had to vacate the beach for a warmer walk inland. Walked by a young fishmonger who was cleaning lovely fresh fish. We asked him if there were any restaurants in town who purchased from him and he said Hix, up the road. It was up a steep road and next to some lovely gardens. Made a reservation and then took a great walk along the Coastal Path, which is a walking trail which seems to traverse the entire perimeter of England and Wales. We have begun to develop a great appreciation for the British system of walking trails, which seem to be everywhere, and so well-posted. On our hour or so walk down the Coastal Path and back, we passed a number of different connecting paths, all posted and giving directions to other walking paths. They seem to criss-cross the island.

Love,

Era and Don