Dear friends and family,
The bar attached to the restaurant, a sort of Happy Hour going on, which lasts until God knows when. We arrived for dinner at 8:30, far too early for a self-respecting Spaniard to dine. We passed through the bar and there was almost no one eating in the dining room yet.
Spanish troubadores or tunas. Unfortunately we could barely hear them above the din.
Every fine restaurant in Spain has one, an entire Jamon Iberico. I don't know why they covered this ham's black foot; perhaps modesty.
First course - we couldn't resist: Jamon Iberico de Bellota or pata negra, acorn-fed ham. Delicious. We are probably dwelling ridiculously too long over this meal, but it was our last dinner in Spain. We're savoring (and slavering).
Both Don and Woody Allen have joked that bacon will some day be found to be good for you. Well, here is the Spanish thinking along those lines. From a British website which cites Spanish nutritional studies (http://www.ibergour.co.uk/en/jamon/beneficios_salud_jamon.html):
The total proportion of unsaturated fatty acids in cured Iberico hams that have consumed a diet of acorns is over 75%, making it the most "cardiohealthy" of all animal fats, even healthier than some fats of plant origin. The breed of pigs is not the only explanation; their staple diet of acorns and grasses also plays an important role.
In addition to its beneficial effect on cholesterol, Iberico ham provides proteins, vitamins B1, B6, B12 and folic acid, all highly beneficial for the nervous system and proper functioning of the brain. It is also rich in vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, and in minerals such as copper, essential for bones and cartilage; calcium, iron, zinc, magnesium, phosphorus and finally, selenium, which has been attributed with antiaging properties.
With regard to calories, 100 grammes of Ibérico bellota ham provides less than 250 kcal (roughly the same as bread) meaning that, eaten in moderation, it can be included in low calorie diets.
It is also an excellent substitute for red meat: 100 gramof ham contain 43 grs. of protein.
The total proportion of unsaturated fatty acids in cured Iberico hams that have consumed a diet of acorns is over 75%, making it the most "cardiohealthy" of all animal fats, even healthier than some fats of plant origin. The breed of pigs is not the only explanation; their staple diet of acorns and grasses also plays an important role.
In addition to its beneficial effect on cholesterol, Iberico ham provides proteins, vitamins B1, B6, B12 and folic acid, all highly beneficial for the nervous system and proper functioning of the brain. It is also rich in vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, and in minerals such as copper, essential for bones and cartilage; calcium, iron, zinc, magnesium, phosphorus and finally, selenium, which has been attributed with antiaging properties.
With regard to calories, 100 grammes of Ibérico bellota ham provides less than 250 kcal (roughly the same as bread) meaning that, eaten in moderation, it can be included in low calorie diets.
It is also an excellent substitute for red meat: 100 gram
I dunno, I always thought ham was considered a red meat. I am happy to hear of any excuse to eat this delicious substance. I only include this to absolve you of any guilt when you do go to Spain or your next Spanish restaurant.
Grilled asparagi and zucchini with shrimp; also scrumptious.
More shrimp or langoustine, grilled. Yummy.
A regional bread soup. Don liked it; I could take it or leave it.
No room for dessert, but this does remind us of the restaurant's name. A rather eccentric meal by Spanish tastes, but that's what we felt like eating.
This is the restaurant where the cute little piglet was broiled or baked and then quartered with the edge of a plate, making that unsettling crunching sound. The attractive young lady at the next table ate it with a big smile.
Back to our super comfy room at Hotel Don Felipe for a great night's sleep. Drove next morning to the Madrid Airport; had a frustrating time delivering the rental car to the right location, caught our Vuelling flight with no problems, arrived in Paris, CDG, took the train into Paris. Freezing. Don was really in the mood for Soupe de Poisson, but that's another story.
On our drive out of Segovia, we stopped and got this photo of the Roman aqueduct. Discovered if you click on these horizontal panoramas in the blog, they blow up a little larger.
Now for the D&E Starred Recommendations for Spain. Inspired by the Michelin Guide, as all the starred lists are. In deference to the Michelin, I decided to keep it to 3 stars as the top rating, but with a twist. For instance, I will do half stars.
3 stars (***) means highly recommended, a worthy destination for an extended (more than a few days) visit, and in fact we would go back.
(**.5) stars means worth a side trip or a significant detour
(**) stars means worth a small side trip
(*.5) stars means picturesque, worth a stop over if you were going that way anyway
(*) star means worth a stop over if you were going that way anyway, but might be difficult to reach (traffic, narrow winding, crazy streets, etc.)
(0) means don't stop
All ratings are totally subjective and our taste may not agree with your taste. In fact, our taste can sometimes be a little quirky.
In order of our trip:
Madrid (***) - Just for the food and museums alone. We went to the Prado and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which were both fabulous. Mel Ramos recommended these and also the Reina Sofia Museum -- which was recommended by many and which we did not have the time to see :-( -- and the Joaquin Sorolla Museum. Squeak Carnwath recommended a little church in Madrid on the outskirts of town which has some very beautiful Goya frescos on the ceiling. So obviously we have to go back.
Toledo (**) - unless you are a big El Greco fan. For historical interest, it's important. Too fastidiously clean for us (as in cleaned up for tourists).
Plasencia (**.5) - a small, but charming town. 2.5 stars for the amazing parador. Good food.
Caceres (***) - Gorgeous historical city. Great to walk around. Can't say anything about the museums as they were closed for the holidays. Also the Fluxus Museum and the amazing natural environment on the outskirts of Malpartida de Caceres. Good food.
Merida (**) - A little over 2, really. Some nice Roman ruins. The archeological museum was closed when we were there. I've heard it's a good one. Designed by Rafael Moneo. Good food.
Ciudad Rodrigo (*) - Worth staying over, if you are driving that way, from Madrid to Portugal or vice versa, and you happen to hit it at the right time of day. Otherwise, we wouldn't bother. Hard to get into - little winding roads
Salamanca (***) - I have to give it 3 stars, although we were there for only a few hours. Beautiful city.
Segovia (***) - Close to 3 stars, but it is not very large. Charming, beautiful small city. Again, we were not there very long. Would definitely go back, even though it is hard to drive in with their little winding roads. It is fairly close to Madrid, so would probably return by train next time.
Also, on a previous trip to Southern Spain we went to:
Granada (***) - The Alhambra is a dream, incredible Moorish architecture and gardens; wouldn't book a long stay here as the city is pretty small.
Cordoba (***) - Smallish old medieval town with the mind-blowing Mestiqua; wouldn't book a long stay here as it's even smaller. Barely squeezing into the (***) category. Good food.
Seville (***) - Beautiful, fun city. The palace is second only to the Alhambra; gardens are lovely.
Love,
Era and Don
Our last meal in Spain was in Segovia at the restaurant, Jose Maria. We got a recommendation and directions from our hotel receptionist. Very cold, Christmas decorations up (it's Dec 27).
Segovia town square.
The bar attached to the restaurant, a sort of Happy Hour going on, which lasts until God knows when. We arrived for dinner at 8:30, far too early for a self-respecting Spaniard to dine. We passed through the bar and there was almost no one eating in the dining room yet.
Spanish troubadores or tunas. Unfortunately we could barely hear them above the din.
Every fine restaurant in Spain has one, an entire Jamon Iberico. I don't know why they covered this ham's black foot; perhaps modesty.
First course - we couldn't resist: Jamon Iberico de Bellota or pata negra, acorn-fed ham. Delicious. We are probably dwelling ridiculously too long over this meal, but it was our last dinner in Spain. We're savoring (and slavering).
Both Don and Woody Allen have joked that bacon will some day be found to be good for you. Well, here is the Spanish thinking along those lines. From a British website which cites Spanish nutritional studies (http://www.ibergour.co.uk/en/jamon/beneficios_salud_jamon.html):
The fat of Iberico bellota ham contains over 55% oleic acid (a mono-unsaturated fatty acid). Rigorous scientific studies have shown that these fats exercise a beneficial effect on cholesterol in the blood by increasing the amount of good (HDL) cholesterol and reducing bad (LDL) cholesterol. Only virgin olive oil has a higher oleic acid content.
The total proportion of unsaturated fatty acids in cured Iberico hams that have consumed a diet of acorns is over 75%, making it the most "cardiohealthy" of all animal fats, even healthier than some fats of plant origin. The breed of pigs is not the only explanation; their staple diet of acorns and grasses also plays an important role.
In addition to its beneficial effect on cholesterol, Iberico ham provides proteins, vitamins B1, B6, B12 and folic acid, all highly beneficial for the nervous system and proper functioning of the brain. It is also rich in vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, and in minerals such as copper, essential for bones and cartilage; calcium, iron, zinc, magnesium, phosphorus and finally, selenium, which has been attributed with antiaging properties.
With regard to calories, 100 grammes of Ibérico bellota ham provides less than 250 kcal (roughly the same as bread) meaning that, eaten in moderation, it can be included in low calorie diets.
It is also an excellent substitute for red meat: 100 gramof ham contain 43 grs. of protein.
The fat of Iberico bellota ham contains over 55% oleic acid (a mono-unsaturated fatty acid). Rigorous scientific studies have shown that these fats exercise a beneficial effect on cholesterol in the blood by increasing the amount of good (HDL) cholesterol and reducing bad (LDL) cholesterol. Only virgin olive oil has a higher oleic acid content.
The total proportion of unsaturated fatty acids in cured Iberico hams that have consumed a diet of acorns is over 75%, making it the most "cardiohealthy" of all animal fats, even healthier than some fats of plant origin. The breed of pigs is not the only explanation; their staple diet of acorns and grasses also plays an important role.
In addition to its beneficial effect on cholesterol, Iberico ham provides proteins, vitamins B1, B6, B12 and folic acid, all highly beneficial for the nervous system and proper functioning of the brain. It is also rich in vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant, and in minerals such as copper, essential for bones and cartilage; calcium, iron, zinc, magnesium, phosphorus and finally, selenium, which has been attributed with antiaging properties.
With regard to calories, 100 grammes of Ibérico bellota ham provides less than 250 kcal (roughly the same as bread) meaning that, eaten in moderation, it can be included in low calorie diets.
It is also an excellent substitute for red meat: 100 gram
I dunno, I always thought ham was considered a red meat. I am happy to hear of any excuse to eat this delicious substance. I only include this to absolve you of any guilt when you do go to Spain or your next Spanish restaurant.
Grilled asparagi and zucchini with shrimp; also scrumptious.
More shrimp or langoustine, grilled. Yummy.
A regional bread soup. Don liked it; I could take it or leave it.
No room for dessert, but this does remind us of the restaurant's name. A rather eccentric meal by Spanish tastes, but that's what we felt like eating.
This is the restaurant where the cute little piglet was broiled or baked and then quartered with the edge of a plate, making that unsettling crunching sound. The attractive young lady at the next table ate it with a big smile.
Back to our super comfy room at Hotel Don Felipe for a great night's sleep. Drove next morning to the Madrid Airport; had a frustrating time delivering the rental car to the right location, caught our Vuelling flight with no problems, arrived in Paris, CDG, took the train into Paris. Freezing. Don was really in the mood for Soupe de Poisson, but that's another story.
On our drive out of Segovia, we stopped and got this photo of the Roman aqueduct. Discovered if you click on these horizontal panoramas in the blog, they blow up a little larger.
Now for the D&E Starred Recommendations for Spain. Inspired by the Michelin Guide, as all the starred lists are. In deference to the Michelin, I decided to keep it to 3 stars as the top rating, but with a twist. For instance, I will do half stars.
3 stars (***) means highly recommended, a worthy destination for an extended (more than a few days) visit, and in fact we would go back.
(**.5) stars means worth a side trip or a significant detour
(**) stars means worth a small side trip
(*.5) stars means picturesque, worth a stop over if you were going that way anyway
(*) star means worth a stop over if you were going that way anyway, but might be difficult to reach (traffic, narrow winding, crazy streets, etc.)
(0) means don't stop
All ratings are totally subjective and our taste may not agree with your taste. In fact, our taste can sometimes be a little quirky.
In order of our trip:
Madrid (***) - Just for the food and museums alone. We went to the Prado and the Thyssen-Bornemisza, which were both fabulous. Mel Ramos recommended these and also the Reina Sofia Museum -- which was recommended by many and which we did not have the time to see :-( -- and the Joaquin Sorolla Museum. Squeak Carnwath recommended a little church in Madrid on the outskirts of town which has some very beautiful Goya frescos on the ceiling. So obviously we have to go back.
Toledo (**) - unless you are a big El Greco fan. For historical interest, it's important. Too fastidiously clean for us (as in cleaned up for tourists).
Plasencia (**.5) - a small, but charming town. 2.5 stars for the amazing parador. Good food.
Caceres (***) - Gorgeous historical city. Great to walk around. Can't say anything about the museums as they were closed for the holidays. Also the Fluxus Museum and the amazing natural environment on the outskirts of Malpartida de Caceres. Good food.
Merida (**) - A little over 2, really. Some nice Roman ruins. The archeological museum was closed when we were there. I've heard it's a good one. Designed by Rafael Moneo. Good food.
Ciudad Rodrigo (*) - Worth staying over, if you are driving that way, from Madrid to Portugal or vice versa, and you happen to hit it at the right time of day. Otherwise, we wouldn't bother. Hard to get into - little winding roads
Salamanca (***) - I have to give it 3 stars, although we were there for only a few hours. Beautiful city.
Segovia (***) - Close to 3 stars, but it is not very large. Charming, beautiful small city. Again, we were not there very long. Would definitely go back, even though it is hard to drive in with their little winding roads. It is fairly close to Madrid, so would probably return by train next time.
Also, on a previous trip to Southern Spain we went to:
Granada (***) - The Alhambra is a dream, incredible Moorish architecture and gardens; wouldn't book a long stay here as the city is pretty small.
Cordoba (***) - Smallish old medieval town with the mind-blowing Mestiqua; wouldn't book a long stay here as it's even smaller. Barely squeezing into the (***) category. Good food.
Seville (***) - Beautiful, fun city. The palace is second only to the Alhambra; gardens are lovely.
Love,
Era and Don
