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A Wedding & Burning Man

August 2017, Don & Era go to a wedding in Seattle then stir up the dust at Burning Man

Where does he find them all? These Japanese school girls, young and older, are always so good about cheerfully joining along in our photo fun.



Seriously, we received this wonderful addition to our theme from the brilliant Deborah Oropallo, our artist friend.

Which encourages us to collect our Big in Japan photos for review.











, 







I'm not so Big in Japan



Warning against a more or less constant hazard for those who are Big in Japan.

And this seems like a good time to veer off into our pictorial signs.



Don't be Square.



Warning: Aliens and their children exiting from spaceships



No Smoking While Walking



In Japan there are literally toilets every other block or so and they're usually very clean, they're often "wash your butt," as Don calls them, and in great working order. This shows the location of all the toilets in a train station. It also has audio assistance if you push the button.





A number of things you should not consider doing in this elevator


More elevator advice


Please walk your bike


No photos!!

Love to all,

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,

We were so sorry to hear about the mass shooting in Florida this morning. What a sad situation. I'm sorry we have to live with so many guns, assault rifles and violent intolerance in the US. Thank God most of humankind is loving and inspirational from culture to culture.

At over 7,000 miles away, continuing our little trip to a mostly peaceful part of the world. It seems incredibly calm and tranquil here in Miyajima.

Got to love the Japanese transportation system. The city subways, the local trains, and the high-speed Shinkansen all converge at the same central train stations. The ferries are a very short distance away from a train station, within a block or two. The buses arrive or are waiting when the ferries come in. Everything is on time down to the minute, and possibly to the second. The most you ever have to wait for anything is 15 minutes, or at least that's been the case for all the trains we've taken; it may be different on some obscure, little used lines. It all makes total sense, it all works, it's all spotless. Why can't everyone's transportation system be like this?

Disembarked from the Naoshima ferry and took a short train ride to Okayama, a bustling and cheerful city. Our hotel was within walking distance (Okayama Koraku), a very comfortable hotel with a great breakfast, which thinking about now makes my mouth water.

Walked around Okayama, to the river and the Golden Crow Castle, so named because of its black or dark exterior.


Okayama Castle aka Golden Crow Castle


Unfortunately, arrived too late to visit the famous Kōraku-en garden. Next time. This is some of the beautiful surrounding bamboo forest. The interior peek into the garden above was taken thusly (below).



Had a wonderful bowl of noodles at a beautifully designed restaurant staffed by young friendly people. The noodles were reminiscent of our favorite noodle place in Oakland, Sobo. After you chose what type of meat you wanted on your noodles, you were asked to choose how firm you'd like your noodles, about 6 different choices. I'm sure there were all sorts of details that we didn't catch.



Condiments, which seem Korean influenced.

Next day we took the marvelous Shinkansen to Miyajima, transferring at Hiroshima.


We travelled in the middle of the day, so got unreserved seats, and there was absolutely no problem. Astonishingly, the Shinkansen runs every 10 or 15 minutes from Okayama to Hiroshima. The trip of about 100 miles, or 160 kms. took an hour and a half, smooth as soft butter.

When we got off the Shinkansen in Hiroshima, we had to transfer to a local train. That took about 30 minutes to go 16.5 miles. 

I cannot stress how much easier it is to travel around Japan these days for non-Japanese speakers. When I first went all signs were in kanji, no English alphabet at all. All announcements were in Japanese. You really had to have your wits about you, and memorize the characters of your station or have them written down ahead of time. These days, although not every Japanese speaks English, many do speak at least a little English, and the Tourist offices are exceptional. Announcements on the train are usually made in Japanese and English. 

We stayed at a wonderful guest house, Yamaichi Bekkan, very close to the ferry terminal, yet very quiet, view of the water and harbor. The owners were super nice people. 

Took the overhead cable up the mountain, as we had done once before.




Not the clear, sparkling blue skies of our last visit, but misty and more intimate.


The Seto Inland Sea.

Then the long and steep trek down the mountain. We took a faster and less scenic route this time. The more scenic route takes you first up a steep hike to the top of Mt. Misen, then a trail which has finely crafted chiseled stone steps and comes down near the Daisho-in Temples.


Making sure to take plenty of rest stops.

Our route this time was much steeper, the stone steps less finished, sometimes not really finished at all. Also, our previous visit it was autumn, so the leaves were amazing colors.


What I think is a flowering dogwood, growing in the wild.

Back to our hotel for a shower and a nap. They had been kindly holding our bags for us.



Then a light dinner; Don had eel with egg over noodles.


 I had tempura soba (buckwheat noodles); the little bowl contains a dipping sauce with green onions and wasabi.



A local crafts beer with the Miyajima torii on the label. Tasty.


Out for a walk and more cute school girls.

Later we spotted them posing in front of the Miyajima torii; not sure what the pose signifies.




Not at all fazed, Don joined in. It could mean "I am a cute little Hello Kitty."


Posing with school boys; I'm not quite so big in Japan.



I'm Big in Japan.



Good night, Miyajima

Love from Japan,

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,

Back on the road again.


Public art at the ferry terminal in Takamatsu. Takamatsu is a lively little city with ferry connections to many of the islands and cities around the Inland Sea.


This is the high-speed boat we are taking to Teshima. 

The crowd of people wishing to go to Teshima were too many for the boat's seats, so the crew got out some miniature folding chairs, probably about 6 inches off the ground, and fit them into the aisle. If only we had posed Don sitting in one, it would have made a great Big in Japan picture. We were fortunate to score the actual seats.


Studying a map of the islands.


Rice paddies on Teshima.


We rented bikes; they were electric assist, which was helpful as Teshima is quite mountainous. But that also means they were pretty heavy. We ended up riding around the entire island. My bike veered a little to the left; kind of scary as the roads were very narrow and there were steep, fairly deep culverts on the left side. The bike ran away from me once and I fell off once. Don was thankful that we got through it intact, and the bikes also.



Small fishing village where we stopped to have a picnic lunch. Actually, something we picked up from 7-11, which is pretty different from the 7-11s in the States. The food is completely different and miles better. Circumnavigating Teshima involves going up into the mountains and down to the villages which are generally at the seaside.



Don took this panorama, the only picture I think we got of us with our bikes. You can see the sea in the background and the lush, green Japanese countryside.


Beautiful vistas


We can start to see the Teshima Museum here, which is more like the Teshima Art Environment. We were not allowed to take photos inside, but it is a beautifully designed, other worldly space. An opening to the elements through an oval hole in the roof and the door openings. The floor is a smooth, apparently porous concrete. There are round balls of ice, I think, in various stages of melting, and small amounts of water which seep through the floor and through little almost invisible openings, then gathers, collects and suddenly spills or rolls seemingly randomly across the floor, slowly or very rapidly to one of the very small round openings. Hard to describe. On a hot day like the day we were there, it was a wonderful, cool and relaxing environment - and definitely strange.



To get to the "Museum" one must walk through a lush landscape, which is completely typical of these islands and this part of Japan. Really a jungle.


Closer to the Museum; one can see the opening in the roof.

And the photos below are something we found on the web, as photos are definitely not allowed inside. Diligent young guards keep a sharp eye out.







The beach where Christopher Boltansky's art project is located. We were pretty disappointed with the art projects we saw on Teshima. We thought the ones on Naoshima were far better, but Mr. Boltansky's project was located on this beautiful beach.


Legs wobbling, we returned our bikes and took the ferry to Naoshima.

































Practicing the fine Japanese art of sleeping while standing up. Sleeping while sitting up is frequently seen, but these fine examples of sleeping while standing are a more rare sighting.




When we got to Naoshima it was raining. We had tried months ago to get a room at the Benesse House Museum, a Tadao Ando designed museum with rooms actually in the museum. It is really cool to stay there; you have a key to the museum and can visit it late at night. But it was all booked. Must have been a tour.



We ended up staying in a guest house in the older part of Naoshima, Honmura. The guest house was very hard to find. It reminded me of the old days, before GPS, when you would wander around a Greek Island, for example, trying to find the room you had booked. Our GPS was not working well in Naoshima. Finally, a kind lady, taking a walk, knew where the guest house was and took us there. The guest house was run by a woman who takes in stray cats, although she is careful to keep them out of the guests' bedrooms. It was very reminiscent of old cabins our family rented in the 'fifties and early 'sixties.


From the I'm Big in Japan series.


Walked around Naoshima, visited a beautiful little shrine in the rain.






I believe this to be a Shinto sacred tree. Sorry, I don't know much about it, except that certain trees, rocks, animals are considered sacred in Shinto. This tree was certainly old and venerable.


And decorated.

Also visited the new Tadao Ando Museum, which has displays of his designs and his commentary on different projects he has worked on. The museum was built inside the shell of an old house and, as is usual with Ando, was beautifully designed and sculptural. Photos were not allowed, but this one found its way onto one of our cameras.


Maybe it was the rain, but we decided to leave Naoshima early. We didn't go to the Art Houses which we had enjoyed so much last time. We were booked into a hotel in Okayama that evening, anyway.



Don with ferry. We thought about including this in the Big in Japan series, but it could look like a mere distortion from the camera. It was a small ferry, and a very short ferry ride to the mainland and then a short train ride to Okayama.

Love from Japan,

Era and Don

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About Me

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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    Hi Friends, It's been said a million times, I'm sure, but Tokyo is a city of great contrasts. We're going to tell this story mos...
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