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A Wedding & Burning Man

August 2017, Don & Era go to a wedding in Seattle then stir up the dust at Burning Man

Dear Friends and Family,


Our best meal in Japan so far, brought to us once again by Fujimori-san and Awagami. We are truly spoiled. In a land of great restaurants the meals we had with Fujimori-san have been the best. In a little over 2 weeks now, we've only had one bad meal here in Japan so far, and it wasn't that bad. They used a bottled sauce which was shocking as none of the other restaurants did such a thing, or if they did, we weren't able to tell. We even went into a fast food restaurant in Osaka. We are in Oasaka now, and our fast food meal there, one a little less than $4 and one a little more than $4 were astonishingly good. 







































They did not hold a candle to this meal, of course, in a restaurant in the little town near Awagami Paper Factory. Sorry, I did not get the name, but if you visit Awagami, perhaps the good folks at the paper mill could tell you.






































Clock-wise, starting at one o'clock, daikon stewed with shiitake, beef and onions; shell fish, probably clams with wasabi and who knows; sashimi in what I think was a miso-based dressing with Japanese green onions, which are more like baby leeks. I should have documented this right after eating, but we had very spotty internet in the Japanese countryside.


Same dish, with dipping sauce and sake.


Beautiful fresh sashimi with sliced raw onions, wasabi and grated ginger


Tempura'ed baby shrimp with gingko nuts


Mushrooms in aspic, but Japanese flavorings. There was some type of potato-like pancake at the bottom


Melt in your mouth beef.



Another fun meal, Era, Don, Craig and Aya (I am having fun, although I look tired). Maybe too much pigging out. Somehow we are managing to lose weight.

Craig took this picture as we are about to get on our toy train. It is 2 cars long. We are sad to leave. What an incredible experience and how well we were hosted at Awagami. Arigato gozaimasu.

Our little toy train went for a few stops, where we transferred to a slightly larger train...and then finally to the mighty Shinkansen. 

Crossing the inland sea

Dr. No's new project




A sushi specialty of the region.

The Shinkansen slides into the station exactly on time, looking like a bionic sea creature. We will soon climb on / into it and take a smooth slippery ride within its comfortable gullet. We didn't purchase the Japan Rail pass this trip as we were making a couple stops of several days' length, so we've been purchasing tickets in Japan like the Japanese, or almost like the Japanese. When you buy your ticket they usually give you a train which leaves in the next several minutes. This time we were given reservations on a train which was leaving in 2 minutes. (Later we were given tickets for a train which left in a minute and a half - we barely made it.) Slight freak out as we frantically looked for our track and ended up running downstairs with our suitcases. I was the last one in the door. Those trains arrive and leave exactly on time.

We're eating around 4:00, that's probably why there is no one there, another regional specialty, Okonomiyaki

In Hiroshima now; a place both Don and I felt a little nervous about going. My mom spent quite a bit of time here after the war, interviewing Hiroshima victims. And later my (second) cousin, Rahna Rizzuto, interviewed some of the few remaining survivors also and wrote a book about it.


Dozens of 1000 cranes, folded and strung by people, many of them school children, from all over Japan and the world, who probably pray for peace as they fold each one. I remember doing this as a kid myself; the cranes were strung and sent to Hiroshima when we had 1000 of them. This is not the only festooned column at the shrine.


When we arrived back to our hotel, there was a street fair going strong. Too bad we weren't hungry.





And life goes on as it should, thank the gods. I am happy to report that Hiroshima has managed to repopulate itself and people seem to be thriving.



There was a rap performance with loud music, singing and a break dancing contest, which we could hear, even though we were up about 14 floors. I was a bit concerned that it might go on till late into the night. (Don's comment:) "Yet here in the considerate First World, everything was over at precisely 8:30, and the streets were quiet." The next morning, the streets were again immaculate and you could not tell anything had happened the night before.

Love,

Era and Don















Hi friends and family,

Sorry about the occasional wrong email blog links. Honestly, I don't know how people keep up a constant blog. There is so much to do to get it right. They must stay up all night or devote their entire day to it.


Prequel: This is the empty vat, su and keta (hanging above the vat) where Don will be working. in the background Satomi is at her vat - She will be making paper and keeping her eye on Don. Some of the kids from the almost continual visits by school children in the background, looking on.


Fujimori san taking time out from his busy day of running multiple branches of a company, preparing the vat for Don's sheet forming sessions. Here he is adjusting the tension of the bamboo counterweights.



The master papermaker, Fujimori-san, forming kozo sheets


Kozo and neri being stirred in the large stainless steel vats
 by the custom-built traditional wooden stirrer, mechanized by Fujimori-san.


Stirring mechanism video



More preparation for Don: Satomi stirring Don's vat (slicing the neri - or the tororo goo, from the root of the hibiscus).


This woman carefully cleans the kozo, removing bits of outer bark which were missed in the first cleaning. 



At a vat just behind Don and Satomi's stations is Fukunaga pouring pulp into a Western style paper mould to make the very thick paper, similar to the paper used in the Chuck Close project.





Fukunaga


This is the post of paper Don made on the first day - nice smooth-looking post, no air bubbles. Not bad for a Westerner; the Awagami staff were impressed, as the sheet and mould size was fairly big. The pink ribbons are laid between each sheet to aid in the separation after pressing.

Here we see Don's post of paper and the vat, su and keta beyond. This is about 45 sheets.


Era, working under Mieko's tutelage, lowers specially treated kozo into a vat of indigo... very, very slowly


Mieko rinsing the dyed sheet.

Dried indigo


Rooftop view on our way to the dyeing section of Awagami


This is a lacy hemp paper, crumpled in a certain way

Then dipped into the dye vats, coming out looking a bit like a market basket full of cabbages

After uncrumpling

Each sheet is different and very strong. They let me dye one, but mine came out a little too green, so they let me keep it. 

These are a momigami paper to be used for covering graduation diplomas


Don and Aya speaking with the cameraman from a Tokyo television station, speaking about the Chuck Close Phil on Awagami paper. If you haven't seen this, it is gorgeous. He also filmed the gaijin making Japanese paper. 


Another great meal at our hotel (showing half of the meal), Aburayamima, definitely a Japanese crowd. In the hills above Tokushima.



Futons made ready for us. There is a sink, toilet, no shower. You are expected to go to the communal baths, take your shower (scrub well) and then soak in the communal tub. We were usually too tired at the end of the day, so would go in the morning.

Love from Japan,

Era and Don


Ohayo gozaimas, friends and family,

I should probably start out by saying that we did not even feel the 6.8 earthquake in Nagano. We didn't even realize it had happened until Inez Storer's email just now. Japan is a volcanic island.

Sunday Don was scheduled to speak at Awagami Paper Mill. Aya Fujimori, a daughter of the Fujimori family (no relation, I think, to the former president of Peru), and her husband, Craig Anczelowitz, formerly of NY, picked us up early from our Takamatsu Hotel. The Fujimori family has been making paper at Awagami for over 300 years. Mr Fujimori or Fujimori-san is an innovative and experimental head of the company, reminding us of Don, so we were eager to visit and see what was going on at Awagami. 

If you've followed the Magnolia Editions blog, you may remember that some of the artists who work with us at Magnolia (Hung Liu, Mildred Howard, Bob Nugent, Mary Webster) participated in an exhibition we had in March of last year during the time the Southern Graphics Arts Council visited the SF Bay Area; all works were on Awagami paper. We had a concurrent exhibition of Magnolia Editions work at Worth Ryder Gallery, UC Berkeley. Later, Awagami made large sheets of a heavyweight handmade paper for a Chuck Close project.


Exterior Awagami Paper Mill, handmade paper building


The Awagami handmade papermaking studio, paper factory, dyeing facilities, etc., etc., are spread across their small town located near Tokushima. It's impressive, the handmade papermaking studio, especially, which is laid out beautifully and intelligently, taking all papermaking needs into consideration.





Don, Translator Kyoko, and some of the audience after exiting the lecture room; Chuck Close's Phil watercolor print on Awagami Bizan paper is on the wall.

The talk was considered a big success as over 50 people came to Awagami, which is located in the Japanese countryside in Shikoku, some from as far away as Osaka University, journalists, and a local television crew. Later a Tokyo tv station sent a cameraman down to film footage and do an interview of Don making handmade paper.

Magnolia coffee was served.


The dream papermaking studio

Forming a sheet

Couching a sheet 

 Don formed and couched sheets of kozo for a large portion of our 3 working days at the Awagami Paper Mill.



Era and Mieko-san (Mrs. Fujimori)


Don making "distressed" paper for an art project


Aya and Era watching the coated paper dry

Third coating of paper (kakishibu, "bad" paint, rice paste)


The Fujimori's dog, Momoko

Craig with Momoko


Our friend, Jung Lee, showed up, fresh from a successful art fair in Shanghai. He had great success selling some Zhang Peili artworks created at Magnolia and Tamarind prints. He is bringing some Awagami paper to China for some of his artists. Jung is standing in front of some of Awagami's beautiful wallpapers.


Removing and stacking the dried kozo paper from the drying boards (on our 4th and final day of work)

All the way along we were treated to delicious Japanese meals
.
A little different. To the left are fish sperm, the Fujimori parents and Jung Lee went for this, so I decided to try it. It was actually quite good, although it took a little mental adjustment. To the right is tofu with crab.



Don, Craig and Aya had crab, which also looks delicious.



Shiso and other peppers, chunks of steak underneath



I don't quite remember the order, but a beautiful plate of sashimi

Breaded shrimp and shiso, crab, abalone and fish

All one meal, washed down with beer and sake. Fujimori-san and Mieko-san toasting everyone.



A closeup of the mini abalone. When the rice came out, cooked with tiny fish, most of us couldn't touch it. This was one meal.

Love from Japan

Era and Don

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About Me

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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  • Tokyo, The Missing Peace
    Hi folks, We came to Japan to attend the reception of The Missing Peace in Tokyo. The location is Hillside Terrace, an art space near Shibuy...
  • Japan Email #9 Hokusai and Kurashiki
    Dear Friends and Family, Seems that many people enjoyed those Miyajima posts. Miyajima is considered to be one of the 3 most scenic sights /...
  • Tokyo, mostly pictures
    Hi Friends, It's been said a million times, I'm sure, but Tokyo is a city of great contrasts. We're going to tell this story mos...
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    Dear family and friends, Thanks so much for commiserating with me so touchingly and beautifully about the loss of my mother's ring. I ha...
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