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A Wedding & Burning Man

August 2017, Don & Era go to a wedding in Seattle then stir up the dust at Burning Man

Hi all,

Been having some internet problems in NY, so I've had to re-do this email about 3 times. Hope it works this time.

Our tour to Sun Studios was cancelled as we were invited to a luncheon ceremony in which the Dalai Lama was presented the International Freedom Award by the National Civil Rights Museum, aka The Martin Luther King, Jr. Museum in Memphis. The Dalai Lama spoke and was completely charming and loving. Everything he says is said with humor and a warm, good-natured chuckle. In one comment, which was dearly appreciated by me, and by Don also, he said that it was time that women took a more active role in the world. He said women are by nature more nurturing and more compassionate than men. (This is a generality, of course. Don't think of Sarah Palin, Condi Rice.) He said that many of our heroes in the past have been murderers and killers (I know many would agree with that; Tolstoy, for one). Then he asked, "Is it possible for a man to be a feminist?" When assured by some in the audience that it was possible, he said, "Then I am a feminist."

By the way, all these photos are the result of Don getting special permission to bring his camera in. No cameras were allowed at this event, although plenty of iPhone pics were snapped.
























The DL talked about going to the MLK Museum and how it made him feel 2 things: sadness that such a great man had been killed; what he might have accomplished if he had had a few more years. But also hope for what MLK stood for, the change he had created, and how so many are carrying on his wishes and dreams. A woman we met later at the concert said our friend Loten was sitting at her table. When His Holiness spoke about Martin Luther King, Jr., she heard a noise and saw that 2 big tears were rolling down Loten's face.

The DL spoke a little about his recent illness and surgery. He had had his gall bladder removed. He said it was in quite a bad condition and the surgery took quite a while. He said for those who wondered if he had any healing powers, this should be 100% conclusive proof that the Dalai Lama has no power to heal himself or others. He did say that he recovered very quickly and he thought that this had something to do with his positive attitude.


Went from the private luncheon to the public talk at a quite beautiful concert hall, The Cannon Center for the Performing Arts. The DL spoke again, but did not seem quite as "on." The sound system was not as good and he was harder to hear and understand. In fact, for the first 5 minutes or so, his microphone was not close enough to his mouth and the audience could barely hear him at all. The Memphis audience was extremely polite and sat waiting patiently without a complaint. After the mike was adjusted and everyone could hear him, they broke into loud and relieved applause. His Holiness was very amused that we had all been sitting patiently although barely hearing him. He took written questions from the audience after his talk, which he answered very well. When speaking about sad subjects, the death of a child's father, his country being invaded, his sadness was apparent and palpable, although he is by nature a very cheerful being.

 

Returned to the Peabody for drinks in the lobby and then back to the nearby Cannon for the concert. Our friend Loten and Nawang performed. Nawang often ends his performance with a beautiful affirmation, such as "May All Beings be Kind to Each Other," and the audience generally joins in. They were joined by a South African singer, who I am told sang on the soundtrack of The Lion King, but I can't remember his name.  


Then a quite wild and crazy young San Francisco singer by the name of Matt Nathanson, who has got to be one of the most extroverted people I have ever seen. His ability to connect and communicate with the audience was awesome. There followed a country western singer who seemed adequately talented, but almost sheepish to be following Matt Nathanson.


Then the star of the evening, Natalie Cole. I had not been expecting a lot from Natalie Cole. I loved her dad, whose voice and choice of music seemed to be pitch perfect at all times. Natalie's decision to sing duets with her deceased dad always seemed a little questionable to me, and so ripe for parody, as Saturday Night Live showed us. Natalie had just recovered from kidney replacement surgery; this was her first performance since. She looked gorgeous, but her first number seemed a little weak, and I was wondering if she had fully recovered. By the second or third number she was sooo awesome, soo smooth, so elegant and so professional that she had us all stunned and eating out of her hand. She was incredible. By the time she did her Unforgettable number with the slides of her dad in the background, holding her as a baby, playing around with her as a young girl and woman, it seemed as if we were watching a historic event and there was nothing at all to cause the slightest snicker. She said that since her surgery many of the songs have a deeper meaning to her than they had previously. Her performance did have a depth and richness which was quite fascinating. A big Thank you to Darlene who sat us front and center for both the talk and the concert.



As a teenager I went to a college prep boarding school for a while, The Athenian School, out near Mt. Diablo. A fellow student told me of the racism the Nat King Cole family experienced when they moved into her neighborhood in Beverly Hills. They got the cold shoulder from some, and some idiots actually burned a cross on their lawn. Things can seem pretty bleak at times, but these horrific events are not as commonplace as they once were. Memphis seems a fairly civilized place. A Memphisite told me that some of her acquaintances tell her that even though they still have these racist feelings, they don't want to feel that way, so I think that is a first step in the right direction. Certainly it was impressive that the city officials of Memphis, who seemed to be mostly black, welcomed the Dalai Lama to Memphis with open arms, despite pressure from the state of Tennessee, who are trying to wrap up some lucrative contracts with the Chinese government.


We left the concert floating, but went "home" early, as we had to catch an early flight to NY. Couldn't hang with the livelier crowd, who were all ready to keep jamming in the Peabody lobby.

Lots of love,

Era and Don
Hi friends and family,

I know this is the only time you hear from us, but you've probably come to expect that by now.

Arrived in Memphis and went straight to Blues City Cafe on Beale Street to meet and party with the Missing Peace group here, mostly friends of Darlene Markovich who have helped put together this Memphis event with the Dalai Lama. The Missing Peace is branching into music and concerts. Ate some of the famous Memphis barbecue ribs (I'm afraid probably the only food they are famous for). However, they were quite good. Listened to a local band with a singer channeling Johnny Cash.


One of Darlene's friends, Krysia Swift, had put together a very packed schedule of events for our short stay in Memphis. Got a bright and early start the next morning (Tuesday, September 22) for Graceland, a place I never expected to see in this life. The surprise is that it is so un-grand. It looks like a 'fifties or 'sixties suburban house on a larger than average lot with larger and more than the usual number of chandeliers crowding the modest-sized rooms. There are some unexpected touches, olive green shag carpets and very heavy carved furniture from a tiki lounge in the rec room - Elvis didn't drink mai-tai's or any type of alcohol -- not his drug of choice, but he did love Hawaii; a rather creepy, but weirdly compelling white porcelain monkey in the 3-screen tv room. Also, perhaps part of the time warp, but the management had neglected to update to our current President of the USA and there was George W with his What, Me Worry? grin on the wall. The horror, but he kind of fit in.


It was a lot of fun to explore this place with a group of like-minded people, including Loten Namling, a Tibetan musician, who has lived in Switzerland for 20 years and has dreamed of coming to Memphis, the home of the blues. Loten plays and performs a Tibetan blues and has a beautifully Buddha-like photogenic face. We got a number of photos of Loten, meditating at Elvis's grave, posing in front of Elvis's hundreds of gold and platinum records, hamming it up in Graceland.



Later that day we met a woman who had grown up in Memphis. She said Elvis was so generous that it is unusual to meet a Memphisite who hadn't either personally benefitted from Elvis's generosity or hadn't known a relative or close friend who had. She is also a practicing Buddhist, but had a father who was a secret KKK member. She never found out about it - altho according to her she had a distraught and scary childhood - until he was actually on his death bed. It sounded so stereotypically Southern to me, with the deep, deep secrets and dark mysteries, though, of course, we have plenty of that in other parts of the country also.


Camera man with a great smile, taking pictures of all the tourists.


Just about Elvis'ed out.

We came back from Graceland, Elvis'ed out. Most of us couldn't complete all the attractions. We noticed a small group of excited people milling around the Peabody hotel lobby. The Dalai Lama was maybe going to be arriving and was maybe going to be passing thru the lobby. Soon, all traces of fatigue shed, we had our white silk scarves and were waiting with the rest of the growing crowd. As time got closer, more and more security and hotel personnel arrived. We wondered if we would even catch a glimpse of His Holiness.


No, this is not the Dalai Lama. This is Era with Khenpo Gawang Rinpoche who has a meditation center in Tennessee.

This is Don's description of what happened:

I, a skeptical sort, had a camera in one hand when the Dalai Lama (and security) worked their way along the well wishers and strolled to where Era and I were standing. As I might  expect, he passed me up and reaching out, tenderly and deliberately touched Era, her scarf (which she held reverently in her hands) and said a few words; then, rather surprisingly, he backtracked to me and reached out and held my hand; then looked me in the eye, said a short blessing (or something kindly) before moving on - I raised my camera to get a shot, but the security was so close by and so dense that a good photo was near impossible  - My attention went to the tingling in the hand that had been touched - because the small initial - almost unnoticeable tingle seemed to travel up my arm. Taken aback, I started paying attention to the tingle phenomena which went full strength to my chest before running up to my head and simultaneously  down my legs and out my feet. - Odd - I was wearing rubber soles.  Needless to say I had a dumb grin on - shock and awe.

Yes, the Dalai Lama actually touched and blessed us. I'm afraid I was so totally spaced out that I couldn't tell if my body was tingling or not. I wasn't anywhere near my body. Unfortunately, we were not in a state to take good photos. In fact, I didn't take any photos at all. This is the best one Don managed to snap that day. However, we have a lot more photos of the Dalai Lama in the next email.



That evening we all went to a special showing of Kundun on the big screen. Our friend Loten and a Tibetan flautist, Nawang Kechog performed also. I held Nawang's mike as there was no stand available. We had only seen Kundun on a small screen previously. The program was very beautiful and moving.

More later. Much love,

Era and Don
Hi Friends,

It's been said a million times, I'm sure, but Tokyo is a city of great contrasts. We're going to tell this story mostly in pictures.


The Asahi Building, designed by Philippe Starck, dubbed The Golden Turd. In neighboring Asakusa, where we were staying, Sensoji Temple, completed in 645 (below), Tokyo's oldest and perhaps busiest temple.



Also Sensoji, under one of the giant sandals made of rice straw, belonging to one of the Temple Guardians.


  
Sparkling clean street in Ginza.


 Boots and short skirts are the order of the day. I had to look long and hard for the costumed figures. Unfortunately, I guess that is not as trendy as it once was.


School girls; We happened to catch Chandra in the train in back.


Tokyo Landscape.


Japanese for Obama! Hey, they're all wearing pins from Magnolia Editions!

Love,

Era and Don
Hi all,

How the monks can make this delicious food without meat, fish, onions, garlic or dairy is amazing. They've been practicing, practicing for over 1100 years.

We arrived in Koyasan after taking the bullet train to Osaka Namba Station, a huge station with several different shopping plazas, then a local "express" and then a cable car up a very steep mountain, and finally a short bus ride to our beautiful temple. We will write more on Koyasan later; this is just the start of the food. This is the gorgeous Daienin, where we stayed.


Don and I have just been served 2 red lacquer trays each, laden with food. The dinners are served normally at 5:30, but since we arrived late (at 5:30) they served us at 5:45. We weren't really hungry yet, but we did our best.


On the closest tray, starting again with the tempura and proceeding clockwise.

The tempura is grated carrots with some chopped green herb. Delicious. Also there was green pepper, eggplant, squash and potato. I could not begin to finish this.

Tempura dipping sauce in small blue and white bowl.

Sake cup for a special sake the monks make in Koyasan. Very good and also supposed to be medicinal (good for the nerves).

The red lacquer bowl with sprays of gold contains a clear soup with noodles, a decorative tofu shaped like eggplant, strips of fried tofu and lemon slice.

Rice, which we wouldn't be eating until later in the meal if we were proper Japanese.

3 kinds of pickles. Very good, not as salty as the type we get in the States.

In the squarish bowl, a delicious salad consisting of shirataki (clearish, white noodles made from konnyaku, I think), slices of devil's tongue jelly (a different grade of konnyaku, slices of different vegetables and seaweed. All in a vinegary marinade/dressing. There was more to this salad; it's partially eaten.

In the red bowl, my absolute favorite. What is called Goma-tofu. It is made with sesame seeds and starch, as well as the usual soy beans, I guess. It is in a sauce with a little mound of wasabi on top. This is apparently a secret recipe passed down from monk to monk for 1100 years. I have never had anything like it. It tastes like the lightest, most delicious cheese with a very creamy, cheese-like consistency. I hope they give us some more tonight.

Tray #2, starting with the eggplant and proceeding clockwise.


Grilled eggplant. Half of it has a dark miso sauce. The lotus root has been pickled in rice vinegar. The 2 green vegetables under the lotus root are okra.

A miso nabe, or stew, in a wire net which has been lined with a stiff paper. There is a flame underneath, the stew is simmering in the paper and nothing burns. The stew has more normal, but very good tofu, clear noodles, shiitake mushrooms, mochi (which is a rice cake made from pounded sticky rice), all in a miso broth.

In the small blue and white striped, hexagonal bowl, a vegetable which has been stewed in a gelatinous broth. I wish I could describe the flavors better, but it seems beyond me. I think this vegetable may be the type of gourd which is dried and made into a loofah. I can't think of the name, but I've had it before. Very delicate and good.

The white bowl is for the nabe (stew).

The blue flowered bowl has tofu, a very different type. It was extremely juicy, had soaked up a lot of delicious sauce. I wish I could describe or figure out how they make their sauce without onions, fish or meat. I can't imagine what the base is. The rest of the dish is Japanese pumpkin, okra, gingko nuts, and a decorative piece of tofu shaped like a maple leaf.

Dessert was Japanese pears and grapes.

BREAKFAST the next day

 

As if we were hungry.

Starting at the top LH corner, tofu with bits of vegetables and seaweed mixed into it, formed into a patty. Again, very juicy with broth. 2 pieces of an unidentified mountain vegetable on top which has also been stewed.

A clear broth with chrysanthemum leaves, enoki mushrooms, and tofu in the iron pot with the flame under it. Not easily seen in this photo, but there was also a flat square of what looked like a very fine moss. It fell apart when touched and made a beautiful pattern in the clear broth.

A little dish of soy sauce.

In the turquoise bowl to the side, gobo or burdock root, marinated with toasted sesame.

In the white bowl underneath, bowl for the broth with a lime to squeeze into it.

Back on the tray, miso soup with seaweed and a frothy sort of tofu.

Teacup and rice bowl.

Pickles and salted plum.

Wish you could be here to help us with all this food.

Love,

Era and Don
Hi folks,

We came to Japan to attend the reception of The Missing Peace in Tokyo. The location is Hillside Terrace, an art space near Shibuya and the Omote Sando area. I cannot now remember the exact name of the area, Daikan something [Daikanyama - ed.]. Tres chic. In fact, the women you see shopping in the department stores are so incredibly put together; we have not seen anything like it since Paris and Rome of 20 or 30 years ago.


Era and Chandra with Ron Haak, Darlene's husband. Lewis' mammoth sleeping Buddha is stretched across the front of the picture. Don and my Dharmakaya is on the wall to the left. Rupert Garcia's canvas is to the right in red tones.


The opening was well-attended. Some of the staff told us it was the biggest crowd they had ever had and that the space never looked better. That was gratifying to hear.



Era, Yoko, a local writer, and I think her name is Valerie, a famous Tokyo drag queen.


A couple of other local characters, showing their support.

At the Itami Airport on our way to Tokyo and then home. Boo-hoo.

Love,

Era and Don
Hi friends and family,

By popular request, a Japanese food email. Mostly pictures.


This is a fairly typical Japanese lunch, especially in this hot, humid climate: cold buckwheat noodles (soba) with shredded dried nori (toasted sheets of seaweed) on top, a dipping sauce into which sliced scallions and wasabi is mixed. Dip cold noodles into cold dipping sauce and slurp away. Tempura'ed shrimp also over soba in a clear, dashi-based sauce with chopped scallions. This is served hot. Again, slurp away. We had this at a small restaurant at Daikoku-ji Temple, Kyoto.


Sashimi with intricately carved carrots. Don't ask me what the different fish are. I know one of them was sea bream. Very delicious, but we later went back to another restaurant which was equally delicious and served larger servings. Does anyone really care about those gorgeously carved carrots? Chandra and I had this at a restaurant in Pontocho, the (I think former) geisha in training area in Kyoto.


A beautiful and delicious kaiseki meal at a Tokyo restaurant recommended by a Japanese friend of Lewis'. We had another beautiful kaiseki dinner in Naoshima, but it just didn't measure up in taste. I don't even know the name of this restaurant, as I never saw it written in anything but calligraphy, but it was in the Ginza in a building called the Jujiya (or perhaps Jijuya) building, across from Matsuya Ginza, next to Chanel and on the 5th floor of the building. As Lewis' Japanese friend said, she took some friends there and they said it was the most sublime dining experience they had had in all of Japan. I think we all agreed - sublime. It came to about $30 each, including the beer. Great value. Cooking like this is incredibly labor intensive.

The first course is salad with a lovely dressing and tuna sashimi in the cantaloupe bowl. The little glass holds the dressing. The little round bowl contains what I think is a tofu and root vegetable mixture lightly fried or perhaps baked and then stewed in a savory jelly-like sauce, apparently made glutinous by some mushrooms. Very subtle and delicious, although it may not sound that way.


The main course: Starting from what we all know, the tempura, shrimp, eggplant, some type of green pepper.

In the bowl shaped like a yellow and green leaf: some type of tofu baked with what appeared to be raisins inside of it, sesame on top - Not my favorite; the red ball made to look like a little fruit is actually a small egg yolk of a bird smaller than a chicken, marinated in something which made it go clear and red; grilled eel sushi with a piece of pickled ginger.

In the white eye-shaped bowl: a salad of seaweed, cucumber, fried tofu, sliced and marinated, and a Japanese dried gourd, sliced and marinated. Excellent.

In the little square blue dish: I think this was some type of almond milk jelled and cubed (or made from some sort of nut), with a caviar sauce.

In the polka dot cup: Chawan mushi, a savory egg custard (not sweet). It usually has little bits of shrimp and fish, perhaps vegetables inside.

In the red lacquer cup: A cube of tofu with sauce.

In the shallow bowl to the side, a dipping sauce.

There was a rice course with shredded egg and other things, which we all forgot to photograph. Can't remember very exactly now.


Dessert course: Very good ice cream, which had bits of rice in it. It was rice flavored. Japanese apple pear in the little maple leaf plate.

Just this evening (back in Kyoto) we found a restaurant which served delicious Japanese vegetable dishes, buffet style, over 20 items to choose from, and brown rice. Just what we had been hoping for. Then we heard from Lewis and Chandra, back in Napa. They just had an Italian dinner at some friends' house with a bottle of Napa red wine, that doesn't sound bad either.

Last night we broke from Japanese food, went to a Spanish restaurant and had Sangria, grilled vegetables, a tortilla and a paella. Not as good as Cesar's or our paella, but it was pretty darn good. Our waiter was a young Japanese who spoke English and Spanish and has traveled to 13 Latin American countries on his own. He said Era looked like his mother, and the family is from the Kyoto area. Don has not been feeling tip top and the Sangria helped to settle his stomach.

Tomorrow we go to Mt. Koya (Koya-san) to stay in a Buddhist temple for a couple days. One of the attractions is all vegetarian food which the Buddhist monks have been developing for centuries. Then we float home. But I'm very behind on my emails. Still have to tell you all about Tokyo and our opening. Hopefully I'll get to that before we return home (maybe on the plane) or it will never be written.

Best to all, and Envision Obama as President,

Era and Don
Hi friends and family,

Thank God we went to Naoshima. Although Edie had highly recommended it and urged us to go, I am not sure if we would have made the effort without Lewis and Chandra's planning and motivation. The route involved taking the Shinkansen (bullet train) to Okayama, transferring to a smaller local train, wheeling our luggage to a ferry terminal, and finally the ferry to Naoshima, a small island in the Inland Sea of Japan.


We were picked up by the bus service provided by our hotel, Benesse House. Benesse is a Japanese publisher of textbooks with exquisite taste in art (with a few exceptions). The Park, where we stayed, was designed by Tadao Ando, a former boxer and an absolute genius of an architect who apparently has no formal architectural training. The Park, which is the least expensive of the 3 hotels which are part of the Benesse House, was barely affordable for us, esp. considering our trip is 2 and a half weeks long, but it so beautifully designed, so perfect in every way, that we were very glad we opted to stay for 2 nights. It's like staying in the most gorgeous contemporary museum with a James Bond flair. In fact, they are thinking of filming a James Bond movie here.


Hall from Reception to the Elevators.

The island is dotted with outdoor sculpture, installations and museums. In one of the fishing villages, old houses have been converted into art installations. Finding all of the art projects is like a scavenger hunt. In fact, we realized afterwards that we had missed one: Cai Guo-Giang's Cultural Melting Bath, a rock garden installed by the sea. However, I think that was the only installation we missed, not a small feat, as this same mysterious Japanese holiday caused the museums to be closed on Tuesday, instead of Monday, so we had to see the Chichu Museum and the art houses on the morning before we left for Tokyo.


The Pumpkin by Yayoi Kusama


Cliff Screen by ??


Walter De Maria sculpture, local boy, born in Albany, CA. There was an absolutely gorgeous Walter De Maria installation inside the Chichu Museum which we were not allowed to photograph.

Photos from inside one of the art houses:



Sea of Time by Tatsuo Miyajima. You walk into a small Japanese house, inside are shoji screens, wood walls and frame, the wooden beams holding up the house and dark water where the tatami mats would be. The liquid crystal lights in varied colors blink silently in the water. Stunning.



Go'o Shrine with "ice" stairs by ??


Water Garden outside the Chichu Museum. The Chichu has a number of Monets in their collection.

Naoshima, a place unique on this Earth. I would only wish that we had planned an extra day to visit Isamu Noguchi's studio, which is nearby (another ferry ride) and is supposed to be great.

Love,

Era and Don
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Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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  • Tokyo, mostly pictures
    Hi Friends, It's been said a million times, I'm sure, but Tokyo is a city of great contrasts. We're going to tell this story mos...
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