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A Wedding & Burning Man

August 2017, Don & Era go to a wedding in Seattle then stir up the dust at Burning Man

Ohayo gozaimas, friends and family,

I should probably start out by saying that we did not even feel the 6.8 earthquake in Nagano. We didn't even realize it had happened until Inez Storer's email just now. Japan is a volcanic island.

Sunday Don was scheduled to speak at Awagami Paper Mill. Aya Fujimori, a daughter of the Fujimori family (no relation, I think, to the former president of Peru), and her husband, Craig Anczelowitz, formerly of NY, picked us up early from our Takamatsu Hotel. The Fujimori family has been making paper at Awagami for over 300 years. Mr Fujimori or Fujimori-san is an innovative and experimental head of the company, reminding us of Don, so we were eager to visit and see what was going on at Awagami. 

If you've followed the Magnolia Editions blog, you may remember that some of the artists who work with us at Magnolia (Hung Liu, Mildred Howard, Bob Nugent, Mary Webster) participated in an exhibition we had in March of last year during the time the Southern Graphics Arts Council visited the SF Bay Area; all works were on Awagami paper. We had a concurrent exhibition of Magnolia Editions work at Worth Ryder Gallery, UC Berkeley. Later, Awagami made large sheets of a heavyweight handmade paper for a Chuck Close project.


Exterior Awagami Paper Mill, handmade paper building


The Awagami handmade papermaking studio, paper factory, dyeing facilities, etc., etc., are spread across their small town located near Tokushima. It's impressive, the handmade papermaking studio, especially, which is laid out beautifully and intelligently, taking all papermaking needs into consideration.





Don, Translator Kyoko, and some of the audience after exiting the lecture room; Chuck Close's Phil watercolor print on Awagami Bizan paper is on the wall.

The talk was considered a big success as over 50 people came to Awagami, which is located in the Japanese countryside in Shikoku, some from as far away as Osaka University, journalists, and a local television crew. Later a Tokyo tv station sent a cameraman down to film footage and do an interview of Don making handmade paper.

Magnolia coffee was served.


The dream papermaking studio

Forming a sheet

Couching a sheet 

 Don formed and couched sheets of kozo for a large portion of our 3 working days at the Awagami Paper Mill.



Era and Mieko-san (Mrs. Fujimori)


Don making "distressed" paper for an art project


Aya and Era watching the coated paper dry

Third coating of paper (kakishibu, "bad" paint, rice paste)


The Fujimori's dog, Momoko

Craig with Momoko


Our friend, Jung Lee, showed up, fresh from a successful art fair in Shanghai. He had great success selling some Zhang Peili artworks created at Magnolia and Tamarind prints. He is bringing some Awagami paper to China for some of his artists. Jung is standing in front of some of Awagami's beautiful wallpapers.


Removing and stacking the dried kozo paper from the drying boards (on our 4th and final day of work)

All the way along we were treated to delicious Japanese meals
.
A little different. To the left are fish sperm, the Fujimori parents and Jung Lee went for this, so I decided to try it. It was actually quite good, although it took a little mental adjustment. To the right is tofu with crab.



Don, Craig and Aya had crab, which also looks delicious.



Shiso and other peppers, chunks of steak underneath



I don't quite remember the order, but a beautiful plate of sashimi

Breaded shrimp and shiso, crab, abalone and fish

All one meal, washed down with beer and sake. Fujimori-san and Mieko-san toasting everyone.



A closeup of the mini abalone. When the rice came out, cooked with tiny fish, most of us couldn't touch it. This was one meal.

Love from Japan

Era and Don

Dear friends and family,

Planning was pretty rushed on this trip. We had originally blocked out a chunk of time to go to Australia for Chuck Close's opening at the Sydney MOCA. The museum wanted Don to speak and teach some workshops, but things didn't work out. We decided we were overdue for a visit to Japan. Our friends at Awagami Paper Mill invited us to come and visit. This is peak season for Japan, however, and very booked up, especially during the weekends. Everyone is venturing out to see the fall colors. 




While in Takamatsu we wanted to go back to Naoshima and some of the other newer art islands and we also wanted to see Isamu Noguchi's studio. We realized we didn't have time to do both. Don had a strong desire to see Noguchi's studio, so we headed out there by public bus. If you go, you must make an appointment. The Takamatsu Tourist Office in the train station is a great resource.


The Japanese do such a good job with wrapping, even their rocks.

There is a quarry nearby the studio, and we passed some stone masons' yards on the way to Noguchi's.






1 Tall Gaijin listening to the tour in Japanese

Noguchi's studio is in a beautiful location. The tour is given in Japanese only, at least while we were there. Also, photographs are not allowed in certain places (most of the places) so some of what you see may not be entirely legal.



What looked like Noguchi's rock stash outside his beautiful studio, a former sake warehouse which had been transported from another location in Japan.


The inside of a smaller warehouse, used for storage. The inner walls are a mud plaster with straw flakes and sometimes patterns made from straw. The floors of both warehouses and his house are hard-packed mud or clay. The whole effect, especially in the larger former sake warehouse, is stunning.





Landscaping around Noguchi's studio; he must have done it with a backhoe.



Back to Takamatsu and the exquisite Ritsurin Koen, dating from 1625 when Lord Takamatsu first created it. Others have added onto it since.



Ritsurin Koen





Dinner at a great yakitori place we stumbled into in Takamatsu. Everyone who worked there seemed to be in their twenties, very lively, and shouting in chorus every time anyone ordered anything or seemingly did anything. We didn't see how they could have the experience to be accomplished cooks. 


However, the main cook looked a little older, and the food turned out to be great.

Love from Japan,

Era and Don
Dear friends and family,
The sun came out with a vengeance the next day. This is mid-November and it was almost too hot to walk in the sun. This might explain why most of the trees don't seem to have changed their color yet.
First some pictures of Japanese breakfast buffets:


Upper left, chawan mushi, a savory custard dish. This one had eggs, onions and mushrooms. Front left, a tofu dish, mashed, mixed with green onions and steamed. These were all delicious. Front right, lotus root and carrots, sautéed and seasoned. 




Boiled tofu in the stainless pot, greens, and all sorts of grated seasonings, e.g. ginger, dried fish, pepper, onions, seasoned soy.
And these were only a few dishes of probably 20; the Western style breakfast and salads were on another table.
Headed out toward the imperial palace; the goal is to walk (instead of our usual sitting in front of the computer much of the day) and see as much as possible.



Tokyo intersection near the used book district. 


Don walking past some of the large team of gardeners needed to keep up this huge park surrounding the Imperial Palace. It's a pleasure to watch how efficiently and with what great skill they work.


Part of an ancient long house where the samurai lived. They weren't allowed to bring their families to Edo. As a result, there were twice as many men than women in the city. And the geisha, courtesan culture developed. The great lords, the samurai's lords, were required to bring their families to Edo, a hostage situation. They travelled back and forth from Edo to their fiefdoms every other year at tremendous expense. In fact, it was so expensive to make this trip every second year that they were pretty much impoverished. Certainly too poor to afford a decent uprising.


Camellia hedge.



Checkered bamboo


The leaves are just starting to turn. Tokyoites on the grass, enjoying the beautiful day



Impressive stone work and moat surrounding the vast palace grounds.



Waiting for lunch at a very popular place which turned out to have California-type food. In fact, in reminded me of Bucci's in Emeryville.

Took the monorail out to Haneda Airport. Was surprised at how much of Tokyo consists of waterways and canals. 

One hour flight to Takamatsu. Daiwa Roynet Hotel; very comfortable. Oddly, on top of a shopping center which stretches for miles down a couple streets in Takamatsu. Daiwa has laundry facilities with laundry soap right in the washer; maybe that's common in laundromats now.



Delicious tofu salad


Sashimi plate. We were so excited to find this delicious food until we arrived in Awagami and have been so spoiled.


Old defensive tower protecting Takamatsu from invaders.

Quirky and uniquely Japanese:


We've seen a lot of trees with crutches for support in Japan. This one has a whole-body cast. Love how the Japanese care for their trees.



And received from Gail Nanao, who is also in Japan right now, arranging for Kenji's work to be acquired by a museum in Northern Japan. Hilarious translation.

Love from Japan,

Era and Don

Hi friends and friends,

Been awhile since our last major trip, although we had a great little family reunion up in Portland, Oregon over the summer. Working constantly, on exciting projects and also trying to keep the IRS happy. A break was definitely in order.

Arrived in SFO to find that our flight was delayed due to our lovely San Francisco fog. I'm not being sarcastic, we love the fog, but in this case we were not thrilled at the possibility of missing our connection out of LAX on Singapore Air. It did give us an opportunity to play with Walter Kitundu's piece. Magnolia printed the birds.


When we finally boarded over an hour late, we waited on the runway for at least 20 minutes. When we landed at LAX, Virgin did their best, asking everyone to remain in their seat while a group of us gathered in front ready to sprint for the International terminal with 20 minutes to make our flight. Singapore said they would hold the plane for 10 minutes. We managed to overcome the doom and gloom escort from Virgin who told us there was no possible way we could make our flight. A baggage handler poked his head in through the gangway door and told our escort that Singapore had called and said they were holding the plane for us. We ran for over a quarter of a mile (thank God no heavy carry ons, although some people were carrying kids), were rushed thru Security by Singapore and managed to make our flight, just a little sweaty, where the lovely Singapore Air stewardesses graciously ushered us into our seats and handed us a glass of champagne. Ahh, that's more like it.


Don relaxing on board.

Arrived Narita after a comfortable flight and made our way to our hotel, the wonderful Hotel Niwa, which I highly recommend except that it is not necessarily in the best location for general touristy things. Very comfortable and stylish with a fabulous breakfast, half Japanese food and half Western. First World, as Don says.

Era enjoying her Japanese/Western breakfast. Hotel Niwa's front garden in background.


Our first morning in Japan, overcast and a very occasional sprinkle. Decided to go to the Edo-Tokyo Museum, several miles away, and across the river. We promised ourselves we would do lots of walking on this trip. 

On the way to the museum, we passed some scenic sights, and couldn’t resist hopping an Edo-style floating world boat to cross the Sumida rather than using the famous Nihonbashi bridge.


Just kidding, the Edo-Tokyo Museum is famous for its recreations of scenes from the Edo period. The wooden Nihonbashi bridge (built, or ordered to be built by Tokugawa) was replaced with stone in the early 1900s. 




We took this photo looking down from the replica of the wooden Nihonbashi Bridge in the Edo-Tokyo Museum. Taiko drummers, just like the ones we have down the street at Magnolia. 


A replica of the first Mitsukoshi department store. Back then, several hundred years ago, they specialized in fabric.


Hokusai and daughter. Our guide, Kaoru, told us that they moved a ridiculous number of times, I think it was 19, because neither of them liked to clean, so if things got too dirty they would simply pack up. Actually, I can identify somewhat.


Kaoru, our wonderful guide (and a volunteer), to the very far right. From L to R, a Russian couple, a young Latvian, Don and Kaoru. Thank you, Kaoru.



Got very adventurous for dinner and went out in the cold night to find Hyouri, a recommended ramen spot under the tracks of our local train station, Suidobashi. Quite a line out the door.


First you have to choose your ramen. You do this by looking at the photos, memorizing the first few characters of the kanji (unless you know kanji), finding those kanji characters on the various push buttons, and then inserting your money. This is a real class joint.


Verdict: not bad. Doesn't compare with our wonderful Japanese breakfasts. Yes, I am wearing a bib.

And now for our Quirky and Only in Japan section:


No Smoking While Walking!


Beautifully wrapped sandbag? On the street.

And probably should include the ramen vending machine above.

Love,

Era and Don

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About Me

Donald and Era Farnsworth
Donald and Era Farnsworth are collaborators in art and life. Married over 30 years, they co-direct Magnolia Editions and The Magnolia Tapestry Project, based in Oakland, California. Both artists are products of the SF Bay Area. Shortly after receiving his M.A. from the University of California at Berkeley in 1977, Donald Farnsworth met Era Hamaji. They married and immediately set out for Dar es Salaam, Tanzania where Donald designed and helped build a handmade paper mill while Era worked with artisans, teaching and developing new craft products lines. In 1980 the Farnsworths returned to California and were founders of the art projects studio Magnolia Editions, known for its innovative techniques and innumerable collaborative projects with artists.
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  • Tokyo, The Missing Peace
    Hi folks, We came to Japan to attend the reception of The Missing Peace in Tokyo. The location is Hillside Terrace, an art space near Shibuy...
  • Japan Email #9 Hokusai and Kurashiki
    Dear Friends and Family, Seems that many people enjoyed those Miyajima posts. Miyajima is considered to be one of the 3 most scenic sights /...
  • Tokyo, mostly pictures
    Hi Friends, It's been said a million times, I'm sure, but Tokyo is a city of great contrasts. We're going to tell this story mos...
  • NY-London
    Dear family and friends, Thanks so much for commiserating with me so touchingly and beautifully about the loss of my mother's ring. I ha...
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    Dear friends and family, More Miyajima; it was a very full day.  Era in purple.  Don finds it difficult to pick me out of crowds here. I may...
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    More Day 4 in Kyoto and Morning of Day 5 After Fushimi-Inari, the place of the 4,000 red Torii gates, I dragged everyone to Kiyomizu-dera, o...
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    Dear Friends and Family, Okay, one more. Had too much material, so last post was all Right Bank and this one will be all or predominantly Ri...
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